Bus Strikes: The Italian Snow days (for students)

I think we can all remember the excitement of a snow day when we were little. The joys of sleeping late, being forced to stay inside your house, and watching TV or playing games with the family. Well, everyone once in awhile we get that day in Italy, except it is because of a bus strike!

For most people a bus strike is a major hassle. Not only are the buses not running, but also most of the time this includes the tram, metro, trains running out of Roma, and airplanes. The city transportation system literally shuts down and one can be stuck in Roma! Since I have been in Roma there have been three bus strikes. This is mind boggling to think that on a monthly basis the whole city is paralyzed because of a strike. It is not unusual, but rather a normal part of life as a Roman. Usually, on the day of the bus strike it is impossible to get a taxi. This week there was a scare that possibly the taxis might strike on the same day. The past two days taxi drivers have been striking (unannounced so it is illegal) about a potential increase of five hundred cabs at night. In return for adding five hundred new cabs, the fare would increase 18%. Taxi drivers were striking because they did not think passengers would pay the new suggested increase and did not want the new cabs. Although the increase would be steep, especially with the weak dollar, I would be in favor of adding new cabs. At night, it can be difficult to find a cab in Roma. It is not safe to take the night bus, so one could spend an hour just trying to get a cab. I think people would pay the fare because they are going to want a safe ride home, no matter what the cost. While I sympathize about the major inconvenience, every once in awhile it is comforting just to sleep in and enjoy the day around the house…and I get to have that tomorrow!

Bus strike Update:

I wrote that yesterday before the strike. Today, the tram and a few buses are running. There have been a lot of flights cancelled, but a few are still running. The city seems a little more quite today. I was by the Pantheon (buying AS Roma soccer ticket!) and I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. All and all it is a beautiful sunny day in Roma to have the day off!

Where are all the rain boots?

November is supposedly the rainiest month in Italy. Before I came to Roma, I decided that I should invest in proper rain attire to battle this unpleasant weather. I am not a fan of umbrellas, especially coming from a city where you spend more time protecting yourself from getting poked than actually staying dry. Why can’t ponchos be the norm and not considered tacky? Perhaps one day this will be become a trend. Until then, I surrendered and purchased a bright pink travel size umbrella. I also got a little “rain fever” at the store and bought a raincoat that can be compressed into a cosmetic size bag as well as pair of black and white butterfly rain boots.

Words cannot express how grateful I am for my rain gear. Time and time again, I have been saved from the dreaded rain and been able to enjoy myself while traveling. Unlike most of my friends who have been scrambling to find rain boots. Which leads me to my question: Why do Italians not wear rain boots?

Not only do Italians not wear rain boots, but also they are hard to find in stores. I cannot figure out why something so practical would not be available here. My only thought is because for the most part rain boots are not stylish. But why not make them stylish? Italy is the jewel of fashion world. Why not create a pair that is sleek, elegant, and practical? Until this mystery is resolved, I will continue to stay dry and accept the stares and glances that I get from Italian women than force myself to be cold and wet for fashion.

My Roman Holiday!

It's official I am spending the holidays in Roma!!! My sister is coming to visit me which is so exciting!! It will be fun to show her around and be her personal tour guide.

Now that I know I am staying I need some help! Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do over the holidays? Any particular events or places I should visit?

Let me know!

Next Stop: Southern Italia!

This weekend I went to Napoli, The Amalfi Coast, and Pompei. Each part of this trip was unique and beautiful in its own way. From the city to cliffs to an ancient town, I found myself in awe of the magnificent and breathtaking views. It was as if I was living in a postcard.

It is impossible to approach Napoli without preconceptions. It is known for its anarchic, polluted, dangerous, yet fun atmosphere with many of its majestic historical buildings dirty and crumbling. Visitors are warned repeatedly of gypsies and pick-pocketers whose favorite haunts are the train stations, tourist sights, and shopping areas. In addition, something I did not know before, Napoli is known for short-changing and moped bandits. With all this negative views about Napoli, I was not really looking forward to spending the day there. These preconceptions give the city a distinct edge and vibrancy that can only feel when you are there.

Napoli is the third largest city in Italy. In some way it is similar to Roma with its chaotic traffic, winding streets that lead to quaint shops and restaurants. However, Napoli is definitely more grimy and darker than Roma. One distinct difference between the two cities is the pizza. In Napoli the crust is a lot thicker, I was having trouble eating it because I thought it was too doughy. This could be because I am accustomed to thin crust, but never the less it was still delicious. Napoli does have a few historical buildings one can visit like the Monastero Santa Chiara, Piazza del Plebisctio, but none of them impressed me as much as my visit to Pompei.

After our day in Napoli, we spent the day on the Amalfi Coast. The Amalfi Coast is an Italian jewel. We drove through small picturesque villages and towns on rocky cliffs by the Mediterranean Sea. I have no idea how our bus survived on some of these windy turns. Sometimes I was afraid to look down because it was straight drop to the sea. However, it was truly incredible sight and I would highly recommend it in the warmer weather. It is still gorgeous this time of year, however, the town of Sorrento and Positano where empty and it definitely felt like it was off season. Unfortunately, we had to cancel the boat trip to emerald grotto because of the weather. Instead, I went to Amalfi to a paper making factory. At first, I was disheartened that we were not going to see the grotto, but the factory was lots of fun. The tour guide showed us how to make paper and then I got to try it!

The last day we went to Pompei. Ever since Latin class in eight grade I have wanted to go to Pompei. In the last chapter of my first Latin text book Mt. Vesuvius erupts and the characters that I came to love perished. Mt. Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD covering the town of Pompei with 27 feet of ash. The ruins provide a fascinating insight into the lives of Romans. I could not believe the bodies preserved so perfectly that I could see their last expression. One of my favorite ruins I visited was the amphitheater. My tour guide Vincenzo said that the Romans invented the wireless microphone. At first, I was thought he was kidding. However, the stage of the amphitheater is covered with marble and underneath are large jugs. If a person on the stage talks down toward the marble it makes there voice louder. I thought that was unbelievable invention for their time!

As the semester is winding down, I find myself more and more enchanted by the beautiful and unique places of Italy!

Good Morning!

Every morning I like to start my day with a cappuccino and cornetto from the local Tabacchi. A cornetto is a croissant that comes in a variety of forms. I usually get it with sugar on top, but you can get it with chocolate, sugar, cream, or jam (usually apricot or peach). At the tabacchi there is a certain etiquette to ordering food that should be followed. First, I go to the cashier and tell he/she what I desire. Unlike The States, I have to pay first and then go to the counter to order. Depending on the Tabacchi, I either tell him what I want while showing him the receipt or they will read the receipt, rip it in half, and prepare my order. Sometimes I put a ten or twenty cents coin on top of the receipt as a tip, but it is not necessary. Most of the time I eat standing at the counter and the whole process is about five minutes. Breakfast is not a lingering meal, but merely a quick energizer to start the day.

Below is an example of different drinks ordered at the Tabacchi:

Un Caffè	Espresso
Un Cappuccino	Cappuccino (Espresso with milk)
Un Caffè Lungo	American Coffee
Un Caffè Macchiato	A coffee with milk
Un Caffè Freddo	An ice coffee
Un tè al latte	Tea with milk
Un tè al limone	Tea with lemon
Un tè freddo	Ice tea

One other important rule: Never order a cappuccino in the afternoon. You can order a caffè, but it is not acceptable to order a cappuccino.

Additionally, I have noticed that soda is not as popular here as in The States. It is cheaper to buy a bottle of water in a Tabacchi than it is a can of soda. Some stores charge a 1.5 euro to buy a twelve ounce can and water is about .50 euro cents.

Va Bene, Va Bene

My knowledge of Italian is coming along! My Italian class is still fun and educational. Lately, I have been working on my pronunciation outside of class. This has been my personal goal, because I know it is easier to learn vocabulary and grammar in class. When I return to the States I wont have the opportunity to practice my pronunciation as often and therefore I want to solidify it while here as much as possible. To make the most of my experience I have to push myself to do this. In the beginning, I found myself being shy and afraid to speak Italian to a native speaker because I do not want them to judge me. However, Italians really like it when you try to speak Italian. Even if you mess up they will correct you and its not embarrassing, rather extremely helpful. For example, one of the first weeks I was ordering a cornetto for breakfast and I did not pronounce the r . The woman at the tabacchi said Cornnnnnnetto and would not give me one until I said it correctly. She also gave me a candy when I got it right! Even today when I was getting gelato (yes, it is still my obsession) the woman corrected my pronunciation of mela (apple). These corrections, might seem little, but they are the lessons I remember the most.

Additionally, having studied French before has been an invaluable help in learning Italian. Particularly, this week when I learned the past tense. I knew to expect that there were going to be irregular past participles and a lot of them are similar to French. Also in Italian, the passato prossimo is formed with the present indicative of essere or avere and in French I use etre or avoir. I remember having trouble with this concept when learning French, however, having already studied it I tweaked my understanding to follow the Italian rules. These similarities have been a huge help in me obtaining a better grip on the grammar and vocabulary. I am so glad that I studied French because it has made learning Italian a lot easier!

Czech it Out

I had no idea what to expect when going to Prague. My friends and I decided to go there because it was out of the European Union (aka no Euro!) and it is a part of the world we had never explored. Particularly, I was interested to go to a country that was once under Communist rule after taking courses about Communism. Even though, it is no longer under Communist leadership I was expecting Prague to be a gloomy city. I could not have been more wrong. The city was active, the people were friendly, and it had the most stunning and beautiful architecture. It was not as crowded or as lively Roma, but it still had so much to offer. Visiting Praha, made me want to explore further into Eastern Europe.

The first day we decided to go to Prague Castle. The Castle is a complex of different buildings, one of them is St. Vitus Cathedral. One thing you must do if you go is climb the three hundred stairs to the top. The view is breathtaking. I have to warn you this climb in my opinion was harder than the Duomo in Florence even though it had fewer stairs. The Cathedral has only one cramped spiral staircase to go up and down. There are many traffic jams and I spent most of the time trying not to get my feet stepped on. After our tour of the Praha Castle my friends and I decided to go see one of the many orchestra performances. We saw in the Lichenstein Palace a performace of works by Mozart and Vivaldi. It was perfect and relaxing plus something I would not have done unless I was in Praha. Later that evening we went to a restaurant near our hotel called U Medvidku. This is my favorite restaurant in Praha. It is not only a restaurant, but the smallest brewery in Praha. They brew there own beer called Oldsgott. Additionally, they have delicious Czech food. I had the garlic potato soup and goulash with white bread dumplings. Goulash is a traditional Bohemian dish that consist of beef in a thick gravy sauce on the side are white bread dumplings which are like taking the inside of white bread and making it into a more airy and spongy texture. They are plain by themselves, but taste delicious when mixed with the goulash gravy.

The next day we went to lunch at a place called Bohemian bagels right off the Old Charles Bridge. I had a bagel with cream cheese and lox, it was no H and H, but it hit the spot! The Charles Bridge is a beautiful pedestrian bridge, but with some creepy statues. I have to say while Old Town is beautiful, at times I was a little disappointed in how touristy it felt. At moments, it was like Florence with its endless touristy souvenir shops.

One of the most beautiful synagogues I have ever seen was in Praha. It is called the Spanish Synagogue. I would highly recommend spending a day in the Jewish quarter.

The most unforgettable day from the trip was our day trip to Terezin (Theresienstadt) Terezin was a former 18^th century military fotress that during WWII was converted by the Nazis into a concentration camp. Approximately, 33,000 people died here and another 87,000 were deported to other camps. As soon as I walked off the bus, I could sense this stillness and suffering in the air. It was as if the ground itself was mourning. It is a feeling to this day I will never forget and had never experienced before. This creepy and disturbing atmosphere was around me for whole portion of the tour. Our tour started in the Small fortress that was the Gestapo Police Prison. We were shown the barracks for prisoners where hundreds off people were crammed into a tiny room of wooden bunk beds. After the tour we went to the Main Fortress which was the Ghetto. This town is extremely eerie. There are about 2000 people who live there, however there are long empty streets and uninhabited buildings as if it were a ghost town. It was an extremely uncomfortable town. Our tour guide stressed the importance of never forgetting the atrocities and my visit to Terezin is something I could never forget.

You Had Me At Bonjour…

I love Paris. There is something so enchanting and elegant about this city that always draws me back. I am glad I got the opportunity to go with my friends who have never been before. I warned them they were going to fall in love with the city and I was right.

However, if I am going to recount my trip accurately I should add in that we almost did not make it to Paris. Right before our adventure was about to begin it started to rain the hardest I have ever seen in Roma. My friend, Will, almost slipped twice in the first five minutes on our walk to bus station. We thought we left plenty of time to get to the airport, but when it rains the bus system becomes twice as slow. Suddenly, our time cushion dwindled to an hour before check in at the airport. So we put our Amazing Race game face on and planned how we could maximize our time. We picked seats on the bus that were closest to the exit and put our luggage at the front underneath so it would be easy to grab. As soon as the bus doors open, we darted off and grabbed the luggage. When we entered the airport there were about five people standing there staring at us. Will and I continued to be in Amazing Race and ran to the check-in line. We made it!

The first in Paris we spent the morning at the Louvre. I tried to warn my friends that the Mona Lisa was disappointing, but when you are in the Louvre you “have” to see it. I do not understand why there is so much attention to this one work of art by Leonardo Da Vinci. Personally, I prefer his works that are in the hallway outside the room of the Mona Lisa. It is just interesting to see how society can create such hype over one work of art. Anyway, after we went to see works by Delacroix and Caravaggio, two of my favorite artists. We also went to the Egyptian exhibit because my friend loves Egyptian art. My other friend wanted to see a painting by Vermeer. Everything was going along smoothly until we tried to find the Vermeer work. It took us about an hour walk around the Louvre to find it. I was expecting a large painting, but it was about two feet by two feet. My friends and I started snapping photos out of the sheer excitement that our quest to find this work of art was over. However, everyone in the room began to take interest at what we were looking at because of our excitement. Someone asked my friend what it was and she replied, “A Vermeer.” Immediately the man starts snapping photos. It was obvious that he had no idea who Vermeer was, but was just taking the photo because it was a famous work. After the Louvre we went to Angelina’s for the world renown hot chocolate that Abbe recommended to me. If you want to pamper yourself with a delicious treat, this is the place to go. The hot chocolate was a like a rich and delicious melted chocolate bar. It even comes with a bowl of fresh whip cream…who said calories count when you are on vacation?

Afterwards we headed to another tourist hot spot: Notre Dame. This cathedral is beautiful in the Gothic sense. Gothic art is not my favorite, but Notre Dame stain glass windows woo me every time. That evening we went to eat Indian Food. Now I know we are in Paris and you are probably wondering why I was not having a crepe, but there is a serious withdrawal of ethnic cuisine in my life. I love Italian food, but I needed some samosas and lamb vindaloo. It was heavenly and probably my favorite meal in Paris.

Day two we went to the Eiffel Tower. I love looking up at the Eiffel Tower when you are underneath it. I always forget how massive it really is. I really did not want to go to the top because of my fear of heights. I got to the top and my friends convinced me that it would be “fun” to climb down the stairs of the Eiffel Tower. There is video of me holding more like clinging onto the railing for dear life. After about a hundred steps I do not remember actually climbing down them. All I remember is telling myself to just keeping going and watch the feet in front of you. My knees and hands were shaking when we reached the bottom, but I made it! At least I can say that I did it! After this semi-traumatic experience, we decided to walk to L’Arc de Triumph and the Champs- Elysees. Great and dangerous shopping.

The next day we went our excursion out of Paris to Fontainebleau! This was the one place I really wanted to go outside of Roma. I took an Art History course last semester about the Chateaux of France and Fontainebleau was the climax of the semester. It was so surreal to be there. My favorite room was Francis the 1st Gallery. This was his private gallery that he only allowed special guests to enter. Every room was full of ornate and regal designs. I would recommend Fontainebleau as day trip because it is less than an hour by train outside of Paris and it easily accessible. The town of Fontainebleau is so quaint and adorable it is a great place to stroll and eat lunch!

After our day trip excursion, the weather was drab so we decided to go see a movie. Not by choice, we decided to see Rush Hour 3. I am so glad we saw this movie. My friends and I had no idea that it takes place in Paris! In one scene, a car chase went right by the movie theatre that we were watching it in. The only reason why I could not stop laughing was that I found it so ironic. All I can say is see Rush Hour 3 if you are an American and happen to be in Paris.
Overall, Paris was an amazing time. From the delicious nutella and banana crepes to éclairs, the food never lets you down. Watching the Eiffel Tower light show at night with my friends was definitely a highlight of my trip. While Paris will always hold a special place in my heart, I realized that Roma is the perfect place for me to study abroad.

I wish I could jet set, but instead I commute

The 75, 60, 90, 718, H, 44, 719, these are just a few of the many different buses I can take to get to school. I have yet to be in a city with a bus system as complicated as Roma. It is impossible to count the numerous different bus routes I could take each day to get to where I need to go. On one hand this is positive because I theoretically always have a way to get somewhere, but it causes a problem because the bus stops are not always near each other. My friends and I all have our favorite ways of getting to school and each one of them has it pluses and minuses. Unfortunately, there is no fast way to get to school.

On early mornings, I like to take the 75 because the bus stop is closest to my house. The 75 is probably slower than other buses, but it guarantees a seat (one of twenty) which allows me to catch a few minutes of extra snooze time. Depending on how awake I am I can get off at Piramide and transfer to the metro. I can take the metro to Bologna then take the 93 or 310 bus to school. However, on mornings where I am still asleep when we reach Piramide, I just stay on the 75 until Termini and then switch to the 90 express bus.

On other mornings, I will walk down the hill, take the 719 to Venezia, and then catch the 60 express to school. The only negative side of this is that sometimes the 719 bus takes a long time to show up and I have to walk a lot further to catch the bus.

In the evenings, I usually take the 60 or 90 express home whichever one comes first. The 60 express drops you off in Piazza Venezia. I can either walk to Largo Argentina (about a five to ten minute walk) and catch the 8 tram or I can take the 44 bus in Piazza Venezia. The tram guarantees no traffic, but I have to walk up a huge hill when I get off. Otherwise, I can take the 44 that usually takes forever for the bus driver to leave because he is chatting with his friends. If I catch the 90 express first I usually wait for the 75 bus, but that can take a long time in the evening.

The key to bus system is if you can get yourself to Venezia or Termini you should find a way to get to where you need to go.

The bus system was the scariest part about my acclimation to Roma. The first week I was convinced I would never learn the transportation system in the amount of time I was here. However, having my school far away from my apartment has made me learn it a lot faster than other people. It also has given me the opportunity to see and explore parts of the city I would not usually see on a daily basis if I lived near school. It is a great personal success that I no longer keep the routes in my bag. Each day in Roma brings new possibilities and new routes that I have not yet explored.

Under the Tuscan "Sun"

When I planned a weekend to Siena, I was immediately reminded of the movie "Under The Tuscan Sun." I envisioned waking up in a beautifully house overlooking a the hills of Tuscany. I was as close as you can get to that dream.

Siena is a little over a four hour drive from Roma. Our plan was not to drive straight to Sienna, but we spent the first afternoon in a winery run by women. This was my first time in a winery and it couldn't be better that it was in Italy. We learned about the process of wine making and how to taste wines. I learned how to tell a young wine from an old wine. Younger wines are lighter in color and when you swirl them they don't run down the glass slowly. We also learned how to smell a wine properly. One of my favorite wines we tried a wine called Chinderlla (I highly recommend if you can find it.) This was definitely not a bad way to start off a trip!

That evening we arrived in Siena and had dinner in our hotel. The next day we went on a walking tour of Siena. I was looking forward to seeing the sights, except it was freeeeeezing out. There was an odd cold front in Italy and it was miserable walking around. However, we pushed through it and saw the Palazzo Publico and Siena Cathedral. The facade of the Cathedral my Giovanni Pisano was beautiful in the Gothic sense. Gothic art is not my favorite, but it definitely was a highlight of Siena.

After the morning tour, we literally ran to the closest restaurant to get soup. I had Tuscan soup which was delicious and exactly what I needed. Later that day we had part two of our walking tour which it was honestly too cold to remember or comprehend anything the tour guide was saying.

Later that evening after dinner there was a concert in the Palazzo Publico for soldiers who were returning from Iraq. There were Italian University student bands playing songs. It was so much fun to hear Italian music mixed in with an occasional Beatles song!

Over all, Tuscany is the perfect get away from city life. I would love to spend a summer in the Tuscan hills roaming around on a bicycle. However, I thought Siena was beautiful, but lacked personality.

Dove sei?

I'm back!!! It feels great to be back in Rome, I have so much to report about where I have been! Over the past two and half weeks, I have been in Siena, Paris, and Prague. It has been quite an adventure and I can't wait to share them with you!