Back in Firenze!

Ciao!!! since I lost wrote, WOW! life has taken me all over the place in Roma. Here are the highlights, the lowlights, and surprises in between:

1. Went to the As Roma vs. Manchester United game. There is an extremely heated rivalry between the two teams and my friends and I decided to risk our lives and go. It was definitely a little scary because AS Roma fans hate Manchester fans and associate anyone speaking English at the stadium as Man U supporters. However, I came decked in AS Roma scarf, jersey, and banner which protected me from being hurt. Overall, the game was lots of fun! At first we were alittle nervous because Man U scored the first goal, but in the second half AS Roma came back and scored a goal! When they scored the AS Roma fanatics lit a red flare in the crowd, it was crazy!! definitely a memoriable experience and I am so glad that I went.

2. I saw the Pope!!! My friend invited me to a special mass for Roman University students at St. Peter. It was a fascinating cultural experience and I leanered alot though my attendance. At the end of the mass the Pope came out and gave a speech. It was in Italian, but I believe it was something to the effect about the importance of education. The crowd went crazy for the Pope. People were standing on chairs trying to see him *including myself, when in Rome..* and taking pictures. I was shocked to this massive swarm, it was like three thousand paparrazzi calling for his attention at once.

3. I went to the Sistine Chapel with my class. It was amazing and stunning as everyone says. A particular highlight for me was I had to give a presentation about the conservation and restoration techniques of the ceiling and I gave it while in the Chapel!!!

4. I have officially finished my study abroad program. I do not know how, but I studied for finals, packed, and picked up my sister at Termini all in one week. It was hectic and I am still in denial that it is actually over. In fact, I still can not believe that my sister is in Italia with me! We are currently in Firenze for the weekend and then heading back to Rome for the holidays. I will write more about the experience as whole, but right now my sister is insisting that we find a cute apertivo place for tonight!

It's Beginning To Look Alot Like Christmas...

Ciao! I just got back from Piazza Navona Christmas fair. From December 1^st to about the first week in January there is little market of assorted goods from candy to ornaments to nativity figures. I was a little disappointed because I was expecting it to contain more unique and hand crafted Christmas goods. Most of the stands offered the same Christmas decorations and food as the stand next to them. At times it reminded me of a state fair in America with the water squirt gun games and ring toss, they even had the large plush stuff animals as prizes!

However I did learn in Italy La Befana is the traditional Christmas character, not Santa Claus. La Befana originates from an Italian folklore and is a witch who visits all the children of Italy on the ever of January 6^th. Depending if the child is good or not she fills their stocking with “caramelle” (caramel) or “carbone” (coal.) Families leave “vino” and food for her. According to legend La Befana was asked by the three Magi directions to Christ the child, but she did not know. They invited her to come along with them to find him, but she was too preoccupied with her house chores. Later, La Befana changed her mind and went to go seek the Three Magi, but could not find them. So to this day, La Befana is seen searching for the Christ child and leaves all good children toys because they might be Jesus.

Throughout the fair there are stands that sell wooden dolls of La Befana. She is actually creepy looking and reminds me of a Halloween witch. Some of the stands had animated dolls of her and when you clap they make a witch’s laugh. I was anticipating on finding some ornate holiday gifts at this fair, but was highly disappointed. It is a nice stop in the day, but I wouldn’t plan on make an evening or afternoon out of it.

In other holiday news…a Christmas tree was put up by the Colosseo. The tree is not comparable to the one at Rockefeller Center, but at night it is pretty lit up in front of the Colosseo. I have not seen many residential holiday decorations in the windows like in the homes of America. It is more amongst the stores and in the side streets of Trastevere in which they are hanging from one side of the street to another.

A side note: Where are all the candy canes!?!?! They are impossible to find here! There are more chocolates and cakes in the supermarket for the holidays than I have ever seen in my life, but no candy canes! Literally, there are boxed fruit cakes, Bacio cakes, Limoncello cakes, and an assortment of others that I don’t even know what is inside. I am going to have a holiday party and buy some, I will let you know what I find!

Bus Strikes: The Italian Snow days (for students)

I think we can all remember the excitement of a snow day when we were little. The joys of sleeping late, being forced to stay inside your house, and watching TV or playing games with the family. Well, everyone once in awhile we get that day in Italy, except it is because of a bus strike!

For most people a bus strike is a major hassle. Not only are the buses not running, but also most of the time this includes the tram, metro, trains running out of Roma, and airplanes. The city transportation system literally shuts down and one can be stuck in Roma! Since I have been in Roma there have been three bus strikes. This is mind boggling to think that on a monthly basis the whole city is paralyzed because of a strike. It is not unusual, but rather a normal part of life as a Roman. Usually, on the day of the bus strike it is impossible to get a taxi. This week there was a scare that possibly the taxis might strike on the same day. The past two days taxi drivers have been striking (unannounced so it is illegal) about a potential increase of five hundred cabs at night. In return for adding five hundred new cabs, the fare would increase 18%. Taxi drivers were striking because they did not think passengers would pay the new suggested increase and did not want the new cabs. Although the increase would be steep, especially with the weak dollar, I would be in favor of adding new cabs. At night, it can be difficult to find a cab in Roma. It is not safe to take the night bus, so one could spend an hour just trying to get a cab. I think people would pay the fare because they are going to want a safe ride home, no matter what the cost. While I sympathize about the major inconvenience, every once in awhile it is comforting just to sleep in and enjoy the day around the house…and I get to have that tomorrow!

Bus strike Update:

I wrote that yesterday before the strike. Today, the tram and a few buses are running. There have been a lot of flights cancelled, but a few are still running. The city seems a little more quite today. I was by the Pantheon (buying AS Roma soccer ticket!) and I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. All and all it is a beautiful sunny day in Roma to have the day off!

Where are all the rain boots?

November is supposedly the rainiest month in Italy. Before I came to Roma, I decided that I should invest in proper rain attire to battle this unpleasant weather. I am not a fan of umbrellas, especially coming from a city where you spend more time protecting yourself from getting poked than actually staying dry. Why can’t ponchos be the norm and not considered tacky? Perhaps one day this will be become a trend. Until then, I surrendered and purchased a bright pink travel size umbrella. I also got a little “rain fever” at the store and bought a raincoat that can be compressed into a cosmetic size bag as well as pair of black and white butterfly rain boots.

Words cannot express how grateful I am for my rain gear. Time and time again, I have been saved from the dreaded rain and been able to enjoy myself while traveling. Unlike most of my friends who have been scrambling to find rain boots. Which leads me to my question: Why do Italians not wear rain boots?

Not only do Italians not wear rain boots, but also they are hard to find in stores. I cannot figure out why something so practical would not be available here. My only thought is because for the most part rain boots are not stylish. But why not make them stylish? Italy is the jewel of fashion world. Why not create a pair that is sleek, elegant, and practical? Until this mystery is resolved, I will continue to stay dry and accept the stares and glances that I get from Italian women than force myself to be cold and wet for fashion.

My Roman Holiday!

It's official I am spending the holidays in Roma!!! My sister is coming to visit me which is so exciting!! It will be fun to show her around and be her personal tour guide.

Now that I know I am staying I need some help! Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do over the holidays? Any particular events or places I should visit?

Let me know!

Next Stop: Southern Italia!

This weekend I went to Napoli, The Amalfi Coast, and Pompei. Each part of this trip was unique and beautiful in its own way. From the city to cliffs to an ancient town, I found myself in awe of the magnificent and breathtaking views. It was as if I was living in a postcard.

It is impossible to approach Napoli without preconceptions. It is known for its anarchic, polluted, dangerous, yet fun atmosphere with many of its majestic historical buildings dirty and crumbling. Visitors are warned repeatedly of gypsies and pick-pocketers whose favorite haunts are the train stations, tourist sights, and shopping areas. In addition, something I did not know before, Napoli is known for short-changing and moped bandits. With all this negative views about Napoli, I was not really looking forward to spending the day there. These preconceptions give the city a distinct edge and vibrancy that can only feel when you are there.

Napoli is the third largest city in Italy. In some way it is similar to Roma with its chaotic traffic, winding streets that lead to quaint shops and restaurants. However, Napoli is definitely more grimy and darker than Roma. One distinct difference between the two cities is the pizza. In Napoli the crust is a lot thicker, I was having trouble eating it because I thought it was too doughy. This could be because I am accustomed to thin crust, but never the less it was still delicious. Napoli does have a few historical buildings one can visit like the Monastero Santa Chiara, Piazza del Plebisctio, but none of them impressed me as much as my visit to Pompei.

After our day in Napoli, we spent the day on the Amalfi Coast. The Amalfi Coast is an Italian jewel. We drove through small picturesque villages and towns on rocky cliffs by the Mediterranean Sea. I have no idea how our bus survived on some of these windy turns. Sometimes I was afraid to look down because it was straight drop to the sea. However, it was truly incredible sight and I would highly recommend it in the warmer weather. It is still gorgeous this time of year, however, the town of Sorrento and Positano where empty and it definitely felt like it was off season. Unfortunately, we had to cancel the boat trip to emerald grotto because of the weather. Instead, I went to Amalfi to a paper making factory. At first, I was disheartened that we were not going to see the grotto, but the factory was lots of fun. The tour guide showed us how to make paper and then I got to try it!

The last day we went to Pompei. Ever since Latin class in eight grade I have wanted to go to Pompei. In the last chapter of my first Latin text book Mt. Vesuvius erupts and the characters that I came to love perished. Mt. Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD covering the town of Pompei with 27 feet of ash. The ruins provide a fascinating insight into the lives of Romans. I could not believe the bodies preserved so perfectly that I could see their last expression. One of my favorite ruins I visited was the amphitheater. My tour guide Vincenzo said that the Romans invented the wireless microphone. At first, I was thought he was kidding. However, the stage of the amphitheater is covered with marble and underneath are large jugs. If a person on the stage talks down toward the marble it makes there voice louder. I thought that was unbelievable invention for their time!

As the semester is winding down, I find myself more and more enchanted by the beautiful and unique places of Italy!

Good Morning!

Every morning I like to start my day with a cappuccino and cornetto from the local Tabacchi. A cornetto is a croissant that comes in a variety of forms. I usually get it with sugar on top, but you can get it with chocolate, sugar, cream, or jam (usually apricot or peach). At the tabacchi there is a certain etiquette to ordering food that should be followed. First, I go to the cashier and tell he/she what I desire. Unlike The States, I have to pay first and then go to the counter to order. Depending on the Tabacchi, I either tell him what I want while showing him the receipt or they will read the receipt, rip it in half, and prepare my order. Sometimes I put a ten or twenty cents coin on top of the receipt as a tip, but it is not necessary. Most of the time I eat standing at the counter and the whole process is about five minutes. Breakfast is not a lingering meal, but merely a quick energizer to start the day.

Below is an example of different drinks ordered at the Tabacchi:

Un Caffè	Espresso
Un Cappuccino	Cappuccino (Espresso with milk)
Un Caffè Lungo	American Coffee
Un Caffè Macchiato	A coffee with milk
Un Caffè Freddo	An ice coffee
Un tè al latte	Tea with milk
Un tè al limone	Tea with lemon
Un tè freddo	Ice tea

One other important rule: Never order a cappuccino in the afternoon. You can order a caffè, but it is not acceptable to order a cappuccino.

Additionally, I have noticed that soda is not as popular here as in The States. It is cheaper to buy a bottle of water in a Tabacchi than it is a can of soda. Some stores charge a 1.5 euro to buy a twelve ounce can and water is about .50 euro cents.

Va Bene, Va Bene

My knowledge of Italian is coming along! My Italian class is still fun and educational. Lately, I have been working on my pronunciation outside of class. This has been my personal goal, because I know it is easier to learn vocabulary and grammar in class. When I return to the States I wont have the opportunity to practice my pronunciation as often and therefore I want to solidify it while here as much as possible. To make the most of my experience I have to push myself to do this. In the beginning, I found myself being shy and afraid to speak Italian to a native speaker because I do not want them to judge me. However, Italians really like it when you try to speak Italian. Even if you mess up they will correct you and its not embarrassing, rather extremely helpful. For example, one of the first weeks I was ordering a cornetto for breakfast and I did not pronounce the r . The woman at the tabacchi said Cornnnnnnetto and would not give me one until I said it correctly. She also gave me a candy when I got it right! Even today when I was getting gelato (yes, it is still my obsession) the woman corrected my pronunciation of mela (apple). These corrections, might seem little, but they are the lessons I remember the most.

Additionally, having studied French before has been an invaluable help in learning Italian. Particularly, this week when I learned the past tense. I knew to expect that there were going to be irregular past participles and a lot of them are similar to French. Also in Italian, the passato prossimo is formed with the present indicative of essere or avere and in French I use etre or avoir. I remember having trouble with this concept when learning French, however, having already studied it I tweaked my understanding to follow the Italian rules. These similarities have been a huge help in me obtaining a better grip on the grammar and vocabulary. I am so glad that I studied French because it has made learning Italian a lot easier!

Czech it Out

I had no idea what to expect when going to Prague. My friends and I decided to go there because it was out of the European Union (aka no Euro!) and it is a part of the world we had never explored. Particularly, I was interested to go to a country that was once under Communist rule after taking courses about Communism. Even though, it is no longer under Communist leadership I was expecting Prague to be a gloomy city. I could not have been more wrong. The city was active, the people were friendly, and it had the most stunning and beautiful architecture. It was not as crowded or as lively Roma, but it still had so much to offer. Visiting Praha, made me want to explore further into Eastern Europe.

The first day we decided to go to Prague Castle. The Castle is a complex of different buildings, one of them is St. Vitus Cathedral. One thing you must do if you go is climb the three hundred stairs to the top. The view is breathtaking. I have to warn you this climb in my opinion was harder than the Duomo in Florence even though it had fewer stairs. The Cathedral has only one cramped spiral staircase to go up and down. There are many traffic jams and I spent most of the time trying not to get my feet stepped on. After our tour of the Praha Castle my friends and I decided to go see one of the many orchestra performances. We saw in the Lichenstein Palace a performace of works by Mozart and Vivaldi. It was perfect and relaxing plus something I would not have done unless I was in Praha. Later that evening we went to a restaurant near our hotel called U Medvidku. This is my favorite restaurant in Praha. It is not only a restaurant, but the smallest brewery in Praha. They brew there own beer called Oldsgott. Additionally, they have delicious Czech food. I had the garlic potato soup and goulash with white bread dumplings. Goulash is a traditional Bohemian dish that consist of beef in a thick gravy sauce on the side are white bread dumplings which are like taking the inside of white bread and making it into a more airy and spongy texture. They are plain by themselves, but taste delicious when mixed with the goulash gravy.

The next day we went to lunch at a place called Bohemian bagels right off the Old Charles Bridge. I had a bagel with cream cheese and lox, it was no H and H, but it hit the spot! The Charles Bridge is a beautiful pedestrian bridge, but with some creepy statues. I have to say while Old Town is beautiful, at times I was a little disappointed in how touristy it felt. At moments, it was like Florence with its endless touristy souvenir shops.

One of the most beautiful synagogues I have ever seen was in Praha. It is called the Spanish Synagogue. I would highly recommend spending a day in the Jewish quarter.

The most unforgettable day from the trip was our day trip to Terezin (Theresienstadt) Terezin was a former 18^th century military fotress that during WWII was converted by the Nazis into a concentration camp. Approximately, 33,000 people died here and another 87,000 were deported to other camps. As soon as I walked off the bus, I could sense this stillness and suffering in the air. It was as if the ground itself was mourning. It is a feeling to this day I will never forget and had never experienced before. This creepy and disturbing atmosphere was around me for whole portion of the tour. Our tour started in the Small fortress that was the Gestapo Police Prison. We were shown the barracks for prisoners where hundreds off people were crammed into a tiny room of wooden bunk beds. After the tour we went to the Main Fortress which was the Ghetto. This town is extremely eerie. There are about 2000 people who live there, however there are long empty streets and uninhabited buildings as if it were a ghost town. It was an extremely uncomfortable town. Our tour guide stressed the importance of never forgetting the atrocities and my visit to Terezin is something I could never forget.

You Had Me At Bonjour…

I love Paris. There is something so enchanting and elegant about this city that always draws me back. I am glad I got the opportunity to go with my friends who have never been before. I warned them they were going to fall in love with the city and I was right.

However, if I am going to recount my trip accurately I should add in that we almost did not make it to Paris. Right before our adventure was about to begin it started to rain the hardest I have ever seen in Roma. My friend, Will, almost slipped twice in the first five minutes on our walk to bus station. We thought we left plenty of time to get to the airport, but when it rains the bus system becomes twice as slow. Suddenly, our time cushion dwindled to an hour before check in at the airport. So we put our Amazing Race game face on and planned how we could maximize our time. We picked seats on the bus that were closest to the exit and put our luggage at the front underneath so it would be easy to grab. As soon as the bus doors open, we darted off and grabbed the luggage. When we entered the airport there were about five people standing there staring at us. Will and I continued to be in Amazing Race and ran to the check-in line. We made it!

The first in Paris we spent the morning at the Louvre. I tried to warn my friends that the Mona Lisa was disappointing, but when you are in the Louvre you “have” to see it. I do not understand why there is so much attention to this one work of art by Leonardo Da Vinci. Personally, I prefer his works that are in the hallway outside the room of the Mona Lisa. It is just interesting to see how society can create such hype over one work of art. Anyway, after we went to see works by Delacroix and Caravaggio, two of my favorite artists. We also went to the Egyptian exhibit because my friend loves Egyptian art. My other friend wanted to see a painting by Vermeer. Everything was going along smoothly until we tried to find the Vermeer work. It took us about an hour walk around the Louvre to find it. I was expecting a large painting, but it was about two feet by two feet. My friends and I started snapping photos out of the sheer excitement that our quest to find this work of art was over. However, everyone in the room began to take interest at what we were looking at because of our excitement. Someone asked my friend what it was and she replied, “A Vermeer.” Immediately the man starts snapping photos. It was obvious that he had no idea who Vermeer was, but was just taking the photo because it was a famous work. After the Louvre we went to Angelina’s for the world renown hot chocolate that Abbe recommended to me. If you want to pamper yourself with a delicious treat, this is the place to go. The hot chocolate was a like a rich and delicious melted chocolate bar. It even comes with a bowl of fresh whip cream…who said calories count when you are on vacation?

Afterwards we headed to another tourist hot spot: Notre Dame. This cathedral is beautiful in the Gothic sense. Gothic art is not my favorite, but Notre Dame stain glass windows woo me every time. That evening we went to eat Indian Food. Now I know we are in Paris and you are probably wondering why I was not having a crepe, but there is a serious withdrawal of ethnic cuisine in my life. I love Italian food, but I needed some samosas and lamb vindaloo. It was heavenly and probably my favorite meal in Paris.

Day two we went to the Eiffel Tower. I love looking up at the Eiffel Tower when you are underneath it. I always forget how massive it really is. I really did not want to go to the top because of my fear of heights. I got to the top and my friends convinced me that it would be “fun” to climb down the stairs of the Eiffel Tower. There is video of me holding more like clinging onto the railing for dear life. After about a hundred steps I do not remember actually climbing down them. All I remember is telling myself to just keeping going and watch the feet in front of you. My knees and hands were shaking when we reached the bottom, but I made it! At least I can say that I did it! After this semi-traumatic experience, we decided to walk to L’Arc de Triumph and the Champs- Elysees. Great and dangerous shopping.

The next day we went our excursion out of Paris to Fontainebleau! This was the one place I really wanted to go outside of Roma. I took an Art History course last semester about the Chateaux of France and Fontainebleau was the climax of the semester. It was so surreal to be there. My favorite room was Francis the 1st Gallery. This was his private gallery that he only allowed special guests to enter. Every room was full of ornate and regal designs. I would recommend Fontainebleau as day trip because it is less than an hour by train outside of Paris and it easily accessible. The town of Fontainebleau is so quaint and adorable it is a great place to stroll and eat lunch!

After our day trip excursion, the weather was drab so we decided to go see a movie. Not by choice, we decided to see Rush Hour 3. I am so glad we saw this movie. My friends and I had no idea that it takes place in Paris! In one scene, a car chase went right by the movie theatre that we were watching it in. The only reason why I could not stop laughing was that I found it so ironic. All I can say is see Rush Hour 3 if you are an American and happen to be in Paris.
Overall, Paris was an amazing time. From the delicious nutella and banana crepes to éclairs, the food never lets you down. Watching the Eiffel Tower light show at night with my friends was definitely a highlight of my trip. While Paris will always hold a special place in my heart, I realized that Roma is the perfect place for me to study abroad.

I wish I could jet set, but instead I commute

The 75, 60, 90, 718, H, 44, 719, these are just a few of the many different buses I can take to get to school. I have yet to be in a city with a bus system as complicated as Roma. It is impossible to count the numerous different bus routes I could take each day to get to where I need to go. On one hand this is positive because I theoretically always have a way to get somewhere, but it causes a problem because the bus stops are not always near each other. My friends and I all have our favorite ways of getting to school and each one of them has it pluses and minuses. Unfortunately, there is no fast way to get to school.

On early mornings, I like to take the 75 because the bus stop is closest to my house. The 75 is probably slower than other buses, but it guarantees a seat (one of twenty) which allows me to catch a few minutes of extra snooze time. Depending on how awake I am I can get off at Piramide and transfer to the metro. I can take the metro to Bologna then take the 93 or 310 bus to school. However, on mornings where I am still asleep when we reach Piramide, I just stay on the 75 until Termini and then switch to the 90 express bus.

On other mornings, I will walk down the hill, take the 719 to Venezia, and then catch the 60 express to school. The only negative side of this is that sometimes the 719 bus takes a long time to show up and I have to walk a lot further to catch the bus.

In the evenings, I usually take the 60 or 90 express home whichever one comes first. The 60 express drops you off in Piazza Venezia. I can either walk to Largo Argentina (about a five to ten minute walk) and catch the 8 tram or I can take the 44 bus in Piazza Venezia. The tram guarantees no traffic, but I have to walk up a huge hill when I get off. Otherwise, I can take the 44 that usually takes forever for the bus driver to leave because he is chatting with his friends. If I catch the 90 express first I usually wait for the 75 bus, but that can take a long time in the evening.

The key to bus system is if you can get yourself to Venezia or Termini you should find a way to get to where you need to go.

The bus system was the scariest part about my acclimation to Roma. The first week I was convinced I would never learn the transportation system in the amount of time I was here. However, having my school far away from my apartment has made me learn it a lot faster than other people. It also has given me the opportunity to see and explore parts of the city I would not usually see on a daily basis if I lived near school. It is a great personal success that I no longer keep the routes in my bag. Each day in Roma brings new possibilities and new routes that I have not yet explored.

Under the Tuscan "Sun"

When I planned a weekend to Siena, I was immediately reminded of the movie "Under The Tuscan Sun." I envisioned waking up in a beautifully house overlooking a the hills of Tuscany. I was as close as you can get to that dream.

Siena is a little over a four hour drive from Roma. Our plan was not to drive straight to Sienna, but we spent the first afternoon in a winery run by women. This was my first time in a winery and it couldn't be better that it was in Italy. We learned about the process of wine making and how to taste wines. I learned how to tell a young wine from an old wine. Younger wines are lighter in color and when you swirl them they don't run down the glass slowly. We also learned how to smell a wine properly. One of my favorite wines we tried a wine called Chinderlla (I highly recommend if you can find it.) This was definitely not a bad way to start off a trip!

That evening we arrived in Siena and had dinner in our hotel. The next day we went on a walking tour of Siena. I was looking forward to seeing the sights, except it was freeeeeezing out. There was an odd cold front in Italy and it was miserable walking around. However, we pushed through it and saw the Palazzo Publico and Siena Cathedral. The facade of the Cathedral my Giovanni Pisano was beautiful in the Gothic sense. Gothic art is not my favorite, but it definitely was a highlight of Siena.

After the morning tour, we literally ran to the closest restaurant to get soup. I had Tuscan soup which was delicious and exactly what I needed. Later that day we had part two of our walking tour which it was honestly too cold to remember or comprehend anything the tour guide was saying.

Later that evening after dinner there was a concert in the Palazzo Publico for soldiers who were returning from Iraq. There were Italian University student bands playing songs. It was so much fun to hear Italian music mixed in with an occasional Beatles song!

Over all, Tuscany is the perfect get away from city life. I would love to spend a summer in the Tuscan hills roaming around on a bicycle. However, I thought Siena was beautiful, but lacked personality.

Dove sei?

I'm back!!! It feels great to be back in Rome, I have so much to report about where I have been! Over the past two and half weeks, I have been in Siena, Paris, and Prague. It has been quite an adventure and I can't wait to share them with you!

The Pizza Project

At lunch Christine and I discussed a new project about creating a list of all the different kinds of pizza toppings in Roma! I will keep adding to list as I come across new ones. Feel free to add some too!

Bianca

Rossa

Mozzarella

Patate

Zucchine

Funghi

Crostino

Pomodori

Fiori di Zucca

Melanzane

Caprese

Patate Fritte

Cipolle

Along with a list of different types of pizza, here are my favorite pizzerias by location:

Trastevere:

Pizzeria Dar Poeta: What would life be without Bufola Pizza at Dar Poeta? Unimaginable. When my friend comes to Roma for the weekend, I am taking her to this pizzeria. It has authenticity and charm, something hard to come by these days. The pizzas range from 6-8 Euro, but it is the perfect portion for one person. I would recommend the Bufola or Dar Poeta pizza. After dinner, you must try the nutella and ricotta calzone. It is warm gooey nutella and ricotta perfectly blended together with a chewy bread shell that makes it sinfully delicious. Just to warn you give yourself time to find it and expect to wait thirty minutes. It is situated on a side street of Trastevere that is a little tricky to find, but don’t give up! It is well worth it.

Pizzeria Da Ivo: The first pizzeria I went to in Rome and it set the standard high. A block away from the tram stop, it is perfect place to sit down with friends and enjoy a pizza. The portions are large and the food is delicious. There are many different varieties of pizza and pasta and they range from 6-9 Euro. If you are not in the mood for pizza I would recommend the house pasta with seafood.

Campo Di Fiori:

“Il Forno Campo De’ Fiori” In my opinion one of the best pizzerias in the Campo area. You can’t sit inside and eat, but you can find a place to sit in Campo by the statue Bruno. It is a well known and respected establishment and for good reason. Their Bianca pizza is incredible. It is also the best pizza Rossa I have tasted in Rome. Don’t forget to try one of their delicious looking pastries!

Monteverde:

“Pizzeria da Simone”- The best Fiori di Zucca! (Zucchini flower). It is a small pizzeria that offers daily variety at great prices. It is not a little out of the way if you are only in Rome for a few days. However, if you have an afternoon to explore a more residential area, you can take the 75 or the 44 bus to Via Carini and it drops you right in front of it.

“Pizza Oriani”- A local favorite among the residents of Monteverde. I had the best melanzane (eggplant) pizza here. You can sit down to eat here, but the seating is limited. I would recommend it for a quick lunch and porta via. Many young kids come here for a quick and delicious snack. The pizza comes by the piece or tondo (round individual pizza).

Cardio Duomo

Firenze is the perfect long weekend trip. We left on Thursday evening and took the Eurostar train which costs about 33 Euro each way and gets you there in 90 minutes. If you don’t take the Eurostar you have to take the regional train which is only 15 Euro each way, but twice as long and very very painful.

I should warn you that my friends and I referred to ourselves as “hard core tourists” so our itinerary might seem overwhelming. For Florence make sure you have a plan before you go because most of the museums accept reservations which will definitely optimize your time. Don’t forget to set aside some time for gelato!

Friday morning we went to the Duomo which is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. This is the most beautiful exterior of a Cathedral I have ever seen. The intricate designs mixed with the green and brown colors overwhelmed me. I did not want to take my eyes of the building. The dome was built by the architect Filippo Brunelleschi an innovator of his time because he used a pulley system to set the over four million bricks and for his idea of building a “dome within a dome.” Once inside we walked around the apse listening to our audio guides, which I highly suggest because they are informative and cheap. I was trying to go along with the guide and not to look at the Last Judgment fresco on the inside of dome, but the art history major in me took over and I dashed over.

There are no words for the fresco. It is so powerful, moving, and intricate that as a viewer you can only stand there in awe. My favorite part of fresco is hell. I love the red pigment s and splashes of orange mixed with twisted bodies that are flowing downward in agony. The demons look sadistic and frightening; it definitely evokes a powerful message from the Church. I was looking at it for so long that my neck started to hurt.

After the Duomo we went to the Baptistery. Immediately my eyes jumped to the “Gates of Paradise” also known as the bronze doors. The craftsmanship of the doors is unparallel to any bronze works I have seen. One of the reasons why I love these gates is because of the story behind it. Brunelleschi and Ghiberti were in competition for this work. They both modeled and casted “The Sacrifice of Isaac” and presented them to a panel. Interestingly, one of the judges was Raphael. Ghiberti won the contest, his work is more emotional and flowing versus Brunelleschi’s which was more daring and rigid. I made the mistake of thinking that these were the real gates, but due to acid rain the originals were removed and placed in the Duomo museum. The inside of the baptistery is covered in gold mosaics from the 13^th century. It is definitely worth a visit. We then went to the Duomo museum, which was interesting, but by that time my mind was focused on one thing….lunch!

My friends and I wanted to break away from Italian cuisine, so we decided to go to this place called Eby’s which supposedly had a lunch special of a burrito and drink for 4.5 Euro. Long story short, the special doesn’t exist anymore, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t eat here. I’m not sure if it was the fact I haven’t had Mexican food in a month or that the burrito had meat, but I might be so bold to say that this was the best burrito I’ve ever had.

After that we walked over to the Galleria dell’ Accademia also known to tourists as “where Michelangelo’s David is.” We made the mistake of not having reservations so we had to wait over an hour online, but it was worth every minute. I couldn’t believe how enormous the statue of David is in person. I just kept staring at it and thinking it is perfection from the proportion to the veins. Two or three times we walked back to David to look at it again because it was so breathtaking.

For dinner we went to Aqua Al 2. It was recommended to us by someone who studied abroad in Florence and it was also in our travel books. We had the five dish pasta sampler which was delicious and so fun! The chef surprises you with different pastas, and they were all superb. We also had blueberry steak! I was interested to try this because I have never heard of anything like it in my life. I’m not sure it really tasted like blueberries, but nevertheless it was definitely my favorite meal on the trip.

The next day we decided to start the day off at the Uffizi. If there is one reservation you have to make it is for the Uffizi. It can be up to a three hour wait to get into the museum. This is my favorite museum. I loved how the rooms guide you through time and artists. Cimabue, Giotto, Botticelli, Caravaggio….I was like a kid in a candy store. Leave about three to four hours to explore the whole museum.

Afterwards we decided to climb the Duomo. I should have put together that my fear of heights might become a problem when we reached the top, but I really wanted to see the frescos up close! I was fine till we got to the first tier of the dome. Then I could only look at the wall to my left. I didn’t really get to examine the frescos as much as I would’ve liked because I was focusing on not having a panic attack. However, the panoramic view of Florence at the top is definitely worth the 463 stairs workout.

The day ended with a “Clue Tour” of the Palazzo Vecchio. Our tour guide was dressed in 16^th century attire! I would highly recommend this tour because you get to go into secret passageways that are usually blocked off to the public. We even got to see the wooden structures supporting the ceiling! It was a lot of fun and educational at the same time.

For dinner we ate at the Golden View, a restaurant which overlooks the Ponte Vecchio. If you eat here you must have the Tiramisu. I can undoubtedly say this is the best Tiramisu I’ve ever had! Just writing about it makes me want to go back and get some!

Sunday in Florence is a great day to go to the San Lorenzo flea market. Incase your travel guide says anything about Santo Spirito flea market ignore it because it no longer exists. You can buy pashminas, cashmere scarves, and silk ties galore. I have never seen so many stands selling the same items in a row. There are also lots of leathers jackets and bags, but unfortunately a lot of them looked like poor quality. It was lots of fun just to walk around and bargain. I finally decided on a purple cashmere scarf which just happens to be the color of Florence!

Italian Fashion

There are some striking difference between Italian and American fashion, particularly for women. Here is what I have noticed:

1. Italians do not wear flip flops on the street. Flip flops are viewed as shoe wear only for the beach. Flip flops are the most popular shoe wear for people my age so this is a hard adjustment because we are use to wearing them everywhere, even in the winter! I have stopped wearing my flip flops because it is a give away that you are not Italian.

2. Leave your stilettos at home. Rome is a labryinth of cobblestone and paved streets. It is a definitely a physical challenge to walk in stilettos in Rome. I brought a pair with me and I am leaving them in the box. Most Italians don't wear stilettos anyway, but there are a few younger Italians who have managed to master this art.

3. Italians do not wear "gym sneakers" on the street. By gym sneakers I mean the white athletic shoes that Americans wear with jeans on a daily basis. No Italian male or female wears this kind of sneaker, ever. Instead Italian women wear brands like Converse or Diesel which are more of a cosmopolitan street sneaker with different colors, designs, and fabrics. It is true that an easy way to tell if someone is not Italian is by their shoes.

4. Italian women do not wear shorts or short skirts. Shorts are also considered beach wear. They do wear capris, but on the most part Italian women do not wear above the knee skirts or shorts. If you do wear shorts in Italy becareful because it will call attention that you don't want to you.

5. Italian women do not wear their hair in a ponytail. I believe it is viewed as a fashion faux pas here because I rarely see an Italian women with her hair up. Also I noticed women are "cat-called" less by men when there hair is up.

6. Italian women love to color coordinate, definitely more than in America. When I was in Florence I saw a woman wearing a red coat, red shirt, red pants, and red shoes. It was quite overwhelming. Even my Italian teacher today was wearing green jacket, with light green shirt, and green pants. I think in America we usally don't color coordinate as much.

7. On a daily basis Italian women do get more dressed up than American women. I don't usually see older Italian women wearing jeans during the weekday. Usually, a typical Italian women wears a nice woven top, a skirt or dressy pants, and leather flats or boots. Italians definitely love to wear boots, and I don't blame them beacuse they are so beautiful here!

8. Sunglasses are the main accessory for Italians. They definitely wear them with attitude. A trend right now with the youth are aviators. Designers like Ray Ban and D&G are huge here.

9. If I could offer any words of advice on how to not look like a tourist it would be to bring a nice pair of sunglasses, a pair of nice flats, black pants, and a plain tops. Not only will you feel more comfortable when you are in the city, but it will probably help reduce your chances of getting pick pocketed.

Italian Time

Anyone who has ever been to Italy knows that Italians work on their own special clock. Italians don't feel the need to rush to please everyone online. In the grocery store you could wait twenty minutes to check out because the customer is talking to the cashier about their life. The worst is if you are the first stop on the bus route, the bus driver could have his lunch or go talk to other drivers before he starts the bus again.

I'm not saying I don't like Italian time, in fact I do. It is just hard to get accustomed to because of the American go go go attitude that I have been brought up on. I secretly wish that Americans adopted this way of life. I think this is going to be one of the hardest points for me to readjust to, because I enjoy my two hour leisurely lunches and feel less stress about accomplishing everything on my list to do. It is definitely obvious that Italians are less stressful than Americans, they go with the flow much more easily and take time out of the day for themselves.

Gelato is my obsession

It is hard to imagine my world without gelato. Whenever I am walking down the street and see a gelateria, I find myself compelled to get a cup and try new flavors. There are a few things to look out for in deciding whether the place has good gelato. The first is the banana trick. If the banana gelato is yellow, politely walk away. Authentic banana gelato is white. Also usually bars that have only five to ten flavors from my experience do not serve the best gelato. They have it merely as a snack than a gourmet experience.

I keep looking out for new and unique flavors for Christine's project. Today, I might have been to the largest and delicious gelateria since I have been here. It is called Della Palma and it is about two blocks from the Pantheon. I believe there were at least sixty flavors. There were so many flavors that I started to feel anxious over the choice, but the good news is you can't really choose a bad flavor.

I had the mel verde, cioccolato peperoncino, and pesca. I would recommend them all. Other flavors I saw that looked good were Mozart (chocolate and almond), Watermelon, "Kit-Kat", Meringotto, Ricotta in salsa di fichi, passion fruit....the list is endless!!

I took some pictures and will post them so you can see the deliciousness yourself! I saw on the cup there was a location in New York! Does anyone know where? If you live nearby I highly recommend you go!

Italian in Context

My Italian class is completely different than what I expected before coming to Roma. Fortunately it is for the better. I studied French for eight years and Latin for five before college and am use to a different teaching technique. In High School when I took French I wanted to learn how to speak to French people and in context to their culture. Instead, my program was heavily weighted on grammar and little culture. I became bored with it and started dreading my textbook homework assignments. I felt studying French was a chore rather than an opportunity to explore an entirely different culture and language. Looking back I realize it was the assignments that were most connected to culture that I learned the most from. For example, when we were learning about baked goods, we went to a patisserie and were only allowed to order something in French. I remember my teaching helping me with the pronunciation of je voudrais in context.

Here in Italy, my instructor teaches me words that I need for survival. Our first day of class we learned what to say to Italians who harass us on the bus. First you say Basta! (stop!) second Vai Via! (go away!) and then finally something more severe which I am sure you can guess. We also learned how to order a cappuccino/caffe and cornetto (croissant), the typical Italian breakfast. We focus on our oral and pronunciation of words and not as much on the grammar and spelling. While there is no denying grammar is a staple and important part of a language, I feel the manner in which it is presented to students can be overwhelming and boring. Perhaps, using it more in a cultural context like I have been exposed to in Italy (for example showing signs found in Rome with different participles) could teach students grammar, while teaching them practical information about the area.

I’ve been thinking about this a lot and I think it comes down to a question of what are the goals of the student and what are the goals of the teacher. I know as a student I was never asked what are my goals were in learning a language. I think this can cause a disconnect between students and teachers. One of the reasons why I like my Italian class so much is because my teacher understands my goal of the class. Everyday she provides me with tools and information that enhances my understanding of daily life in Roma.

Additionally, I have learned a lot about Italian culture in my language class. For example, we did a lesson on hand gestures and what they mean in Italian. We also read an article about AS Roma soccer and explained to us who famous players were on the team. I feel like I am not just learning how to speak Italian, but I am understanding the Italian way of life.

In the end for me it is learning through culture, rather than learning about culture that has made my Italian class and my study abroad experience successful so far.

Assisi and Perugia!

Last weekend, I took my first trip outside of Roma!

Assisi was amazing, breathtaking, and truly the most enchanting town I have ever been to. If you can get away from the swarms of tourists who flood the this town that has only eight hundred residents and find a small narrow sidestreet you will feel like you are walking in a Medieval city.

The town is dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi. Literally, every souvenir had St. Francis on it. We went on a walking guided tour and started off by going into St. Francis’ basilica. I think I almost had a case of Stendhal syndrome. The whole church was floor to ceiling frescoes. It was absolutely the most amazing church I have ever been in. I saw a few frescoes that I studied, but most importantly I saw the St. Francis’ alter piece which was one of my favorite works in the beginning of my Art History class. One thing I have learned quickly in Italy is that art history slides do not do justice to the scale of works. I never really understood the magnitude and importance of envisioning a work in its actual size. The frescoes were at least five times larger than I imagined.

After St. Francis basilica we walked through the town and arrived at the Santa Chiara basilica. This basilica was beautiful as well. I would definitely recommend walking downstairs and seeing her tomb. For me, it was one of the highlights of the trip. The beautiful and elaborate marble work around her tomb is something that words and pictures cannot describe. Unfortunately it is hard to relay the darkness and somberness of the room that enhanced the overall experience.

After the tour my friends and I decided that we should climb to the top of Assisi were there is a I believe a former monastery because we thought the view would be gorgeous. It was hell. Fifteen minutes of uphill non-stop climbing in what felt like hundred degree weather. We did reach the top and views were stunning, but I would suggest taking a taxi next time. At least I can say I did it!

That evening we ate dinner in this restaurant called “La Stella” I would recommend the restaurant, but only if you eat outside. We are right by the grill and it was literally a million degrees. I had a delicious assortment of eggplants from grilled, sauteed, and fried. After dinner we relaxed in our hotel because Assisi does not offer a night life.

The next day we took a bus to Perugia. For some inexplicable reason, I was disappointed with Perugia. It had the qualities of an enchanting town with beautiful scenery, but as a whole I felt unimpressed and glad we only spent the afternoon there. I'm not sure if it was due to my lack of sleep, but I just didn't feel as much character and personality as the city of Assisi. Although, I must note there were a lot of clothing stores and definitely some good shopping can be found there, but the best part of Perugia for me was the chocolate store where I got chili pepper chocolate!

Next week I am going to Florence! Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do?

volume

I thought it was interesting what you wrote about the volume of Italians talking. I, too, have seen this. As you learn more Italian and become familiar with the culture, you will see/hear people talking at different volumes. Generally speaking you are correct. When they are involved or impassioned, the level goes up. But, I also noted that often the silence of Italians was louder and carried more of an impact than the loudness did. Also, try to figure out the socio-economic level of the Italians that you are observing. There is definitely a difference.

La Notte Bianca

Ciao!! Saturday night we went to La Notte Bianca! In case you don’t know what this is it is the night when all of Rome stays up and attends different events around the city. The events range from musical acts on stages to group dancing in the street. I have never experienced anything like this in my life. The whole city was alive and full of energy till eight in the morning. We started off the evening walked around Campo Di Fiori also known to Italians as the “Campo Di America” because it were a lot of Americans go to hang out. We went to a pub called The Drunken Ship, which was shockingly mostly Americans. It was fun for a few minutes, until we all came to the conclusion that we did not come to Rome to immerse ourselves with other Americans, but with Italians. We then headed to Circus Maximus where we stumbled upon a “cirque de soleil” like musical act. The performance was one of the most intriguing acts I have ever seen in my life. I posted some pictures, but words can really do it justice. After that act we walked to Piazza Novana and watched some impromptu Sicilian dancing. That was lots of fun to see Italians dancing so energetically at four in the morning. Our feet were starting to hurt so we had a much needed cappuccino and rested for a bit. Somehow, we walked to the Giancolo hill to watch the sunrise. I couldn’t believe how many people were there at 6 am. Although we were exhausted, it was worth it.

La Notte Bianca

La Piramide

I have been to Pyramida!!! Actually, our first night we were suppose to meet our school center at the pyramida stop. However, we had trouble finding the bus so we missed them completely. We did manage to finally get off at the bus stop that was suppose to be right neat Pyramida. We couldn't see the Pyramid from where we were standing so I asked some Italian women and they started laughing....I didn't realize why until they pointed behind us and literally there was the pyramid! It is absolutely stunning. I actually now take the bus to the pyramida metro station and then take the train to Piazza Bologna to get to school. I haven't gone into the cemetery yet, but now that you have mentioned it perhaps on my way home I will stop by. Also there is supposedly a delicious pizzeria called Di Petro in the area. Have you heard of it? Speaking of pizza, last night I had potato pizza for the first time! It was delicious. Ciao for now!

PS. I will also post about my La Notte Bianca experience soon!

Here is something we watched during orientation that is funny, yet accurate! http://www.infonegocio.com/xeron/bruno/italy.html

I haven't had any Italian language classes yet, but I find myself learning words through street signs and ordering food. Usually, when I study a language I have trouble with pronunciation. However, in Rome, I find myself constantly using the same words over and over again which helps me solidify not only the vocabulary, but also my accent. Additionally, it is extremely helpful to hear different Italians say words, because you can pick up on all the different intonations. Something I learned the other day after seeing what I thought was an argument on the bus was that when Italians speak loudly it is not a sign of disrespect or an argument. It is a way for them to show that they are paying attention to the conversation.

I am on my way to a guided tour of Rome! This weekend we will be going to La Notte Bianca! If you have any suggestions on what to see during this event let me know!

Ciao!
Candice

Culture Shock

I am sorry it took me this long to write again, but words cannot describe how busy I am! First off, everything is great! I live in this area in Monteverde which is viewed as a residential area of Rome. However, we are right on the border of it and it is a ten minute walk to Trastevere. Trastevere is considered the hip bohemian area of Rome (which I have not yet been too, but hopefully tonight!) My apartment is nice and serves it purpose. We have an electronic gate to the apartment building that you have to open with a key every time you go in and out. Once you open it my apartment is one the ground floor. You don't actually walk into the building to get to my room you go through the terrace. The terrace is hugggggge and it is where we put our laundry out to dry!
There are cultural differences that will take time to get use to. The main difference is the pace in which Romans handle everything. Everyone takes FOREVER to do anything in Rome. Momento can mean anything from 5 minutes to an hour….it's frustrating, especially when trying to get to school in the morning. There is no bus schedule, the bus comes when it feels like it. It is quite an experience to take the bus in the morning rush over. They have instilled in our minds that we must keep our belongings in our site at all times, so it is hard to just relax for a minute. Also interesting fact about the system, the bus driver is not responsible to see that you validated your ticket. There are these machines placed in different ends of the bus in which you are suppose to stamp your ticket. You can ride the bus or metro without paying. However, if an inspector comes on and asks to see your ticket and you haven't validated it you have to pay 101 Euro. So, in conclusion, I bought a monthly pass for 30 Euro. So we take the bus to this stop which is literally thirty feet from Trajan Column (I think it is called Piazza Novana, but not sure.) Anyway, Trajan's column is AMAZING. Unfortunately there is scaffolding on part of it, but it is so awesome to just be able to walk by it everyday.

Crossing the street is so nerve racking. Rome does have red lights, but no one follows them. They are truly viewed as suggestions, especially when it comes to scooters which so many people use. You basically walk out to the middle of the street and pray that no one runs you over! Mostly I just wait for someone to say go or follow an Italian. It is definitely going to take some getting use to.

Other than that little things like different electric converters, to showers with barely any hot water that take time to adjust to. I can't wait to share more with you, but it is time for lunch! One amazing aspect of Italian culture is the value and appreciation of a relaxing meal. Lunch will be about two hours long! Ciao!

Rome is My Home, Too!

Hi, Candice,

I am going to follow your blog very carefully. Rome is one of my very favorite cities. I lived there for ten years. I married a Roman. We were married on the Capitoline Hill under the watchful eyes of Marcus Aurelius. I have many important and happy memories of Rome. Enjoy yourself in one of the most intriguing cities in the world!

In the photo below you will see the marvelous statue of Marcus Aurelius, the great Roman emperor. The beautiful building in the background is where the mayor of Rome has his offices.

In the photo on the right you will see an aerial view of the Campidoglio with the statue of the emperor in the center. This square was designed by Michelangelo. The two buildings make up the Capitoline Museum. I was married in a room in the museum on the left.

Jet lagged and it feels so good!

Actually, I lied. The jet lag is terrible, but being in Rome is fabulous! I arrived a few hours ago to Rome and have been busy unpacking and trying to find internet service. I am going out for my first Roman meal tonight and am very excited. I just wanted to let everyone know that I am great and can't believe that I am finally here! The first major difference I noticed is the keyboard buttons are different. I still can't find the @ sign and keep having to copy and paste it..if someone knows how to get it on the keyboard Iwould greatly appreciate it! ciao!

Salve!

Salve! I am an Italian teacher in New Jersey. I have been fortunate to live in Rome and continue to travel there as my husband was born and grew up there. Rome is a fascinating place. There you feel that you are walking through the pages of an art history book. Besides learning the language, you are going to have the opprtunity to learn about ancient and current culture, politics, economics and the culinary arts among other topics. You may find that you miss the ease with which we accomplish things in the US. The concept of time will also be interesting. Let me know how you are enjoying yourself so far.

Ciao!

Ciao! My name is Candice and I am a college student in the DC metro area spending the semester in Rome! I have had no experience with the Italian language and have never been to Italy! You may be wondering why I chose Rome. Well, my fascination with Rome began as a Latin student. For five years I read everything from the epic Aeneid to Livy's Ab Urbe Condita. Enchanted by its history, I continued to study the Eternal City through its art. Rome is truly the epicenter of my passions: art, history, and food!
In addition, Italian is a language that I have always wanted to learn, but have never had the opportunity to study. I hope that my knowledge of Latin and French will make it easier for me to learn. I can't say that I'm not nervous, but right now writing this blog I think of all the wonderful opportunites and am overwhelmed with excitement! I can't wait to share my experiences with you and be able to say When in Rome...